fish!
Stylish, but relaxed

There's something fishy going on at Fish restaurant near Borough Market. Top-quality seafood cuisine, sourced from sustainable sources, served in a fantastic location for sensible prices? Surely not?

And yet it seems to be so. Fish, or to give it the official idiosyncratic typography, fish!, is an attractive glass pavilion nestled alongside the legendary Borough Market. Only a stone's throw from the Thames , it manages to be both secluded and central. A particular draw in the warmer months is its relatively large outdoor seating area. Dine in style as you watch the downtrodden worker drones troop back to their hives!

Sustainable

What sets Fish apart from the other gastronomic offerings downtown could well be its philosophy. Dwindling fish stocks have really only recently started to seep into the wider public consciousness, but Fish has been sourcing its fish from sustainable sources since it opened in 1999. In fact, as they proudly trumpet on their website, they work in partnership with the Marine Stewardship Council. Good news for guilt-ridden cod lovers then!

Flipper says enjoy your tuna!

So, should you decide to descend upon the restaurant in a mood to (sustainably) lay waste to some serious fish, what is on offer? Simple: 15 different varieties of spanking fresh fish. Choose your favourite, decide how you would like it cooked, and even choose the sauce. Be warned however, there is no guarantee that any particular species will be in on the day, it's that fresh. My regular dinner partner is still waiting for a chance to take a crack at the lemon sole, for example.

Menu

Being a manbloke, i've often found it hard to stay away from a fat grilled swordfish steak, served with a lemon and herb butter. Here the fish speaks for itself, and it is glorious.

Turning aside from the 'pick your own' menu, there is a decent selection of other dishes, such as an excellent fish pie, the obligatory bucket of mussels, fish 'n' chips, and a wonderful sounding dish of scallops wrapped in pancetta on a roast mushroom salad. Drool!

Starters are also good, in particular a morish calamari served on rocket with a sprightly lemon mayonnaise. And if that doesn't satisfy your inner mayonnaise goblin, you really need to try the dressed crab, which has come all the way from Cornwall to join some crusty bread and a good dollop of Olympic-class mayonnaise.

My advice, however, is to make sure you save room for desert. On the offering is a warm chocolate fondant that is so good it has been known to make people gurn. You have been warned!

Kids and booze

Plenty to suit you on the wine list (hic!)

There is a limited kids menu available, but in my experience the location tends to limit the amount of ankle-biters seen dining.

The wine list is fairly robust, and there is a stylish bar set around the centrally located open kitchen. Wines start at £14, and top out with a selection of really heavy hitters.

Service is good, staff materialising at appropriate times and keeping up an unobtrusive bustle, even during busy periods. Whenever Borough Market is in full battle cry next door, expect pandemonium at Fish.

Overall, a class act, made all the more enjoyable by the ethical buying approach of the owners. We need more of this, and so do the fish!

- Review by Pacman

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